Galway

Our visit to Galway was split in two parts - both rather brief as they bookended our trip to Inishmore. Galway itself would be worth a visit but having spent so much time in Dublin in many ways it felt like a smaller version of Dublin that happened to be located on the water. That may sound like it is not a compliment but truly it is - we really enjoyed our brief time in Galway and if for some reason we found ourselves with the opportunity to move to Ireland the Galway area would draw us before the Dublin area would (though I must admit the Wicklow mountains might pull us that way). Hey it is fun to dream right?

As we drove into Galway we experienced a relief and a sense of peace as we drove along the coastal road and took in the beauty. The views and calm of Galway were a much needed welcome sight after what Serona considered at times an extremely stressful drive. He adjusted to the other side of the road quite well and we managed to figure out together what the local gibberish on the signs meant but one aspect he could not quite get over were the dotted yellow lines that allow cars to drive on the shoulder so others can pass (at least that is what they are used for if they are not designed for this purpose). This photo taken by me in the passenger seat was an all too common sight in our driving on this wonderful road across the countryside of Ireland going through quaint towns - the road reminded me of Rte 66 in the US. The photo is a bit deceiving as it actually appears that you have more room than you do.


So we arrive in Galway to discover we have another hour drive to get to the ferry that will take us to Inishmore. We purchased our tickets and headed off to explore Galway. We decided it was a perfect opportunity to make some gift purchases. Ironically in Galway was the only store I knew by name that I wanted to visit - Fallers Jewelers. Before you get the wrong impression, I don't like to shop, I don't love brand names and I am not a big jewelery fan in general (though Celtic jewelery does seem to be an exception to this rule for me). Why Fallers then? We really wanted to see their Claddagh rings which they have been making forever and are renowned throughout Ireland. Like the song from our wedding "My tiny piece of Ireland, my little Claddagh ring". We had decided we wanted to purchase an authentic Claddagh ring for each of our children. Not being completely idealistic we knew they would be for the future - so we don't go off the deep end when our eight year old loses a ring we bought in Ireland. We settled on purchasing them each a Claddagh for when they are teenagers - most likely to be given to them around their 16th birthday or so, but allowing them to see them now - so it would be their main gift but they can't have it for nearly a decade. We are mean parents I know :)


Fallers did have an excellent collection of jewelery and I was tempted to purchase myself something there but just kept reminding myself that being here was my gift and I had the choice between jewelery and knitting - I decided on the knitting - strange woman I am I know. The only piece I really feel in love with (besides the rings we purchased for the kids) was a history of Ireland pendant but I could not justify the cost to be sure! It was great fun to browse and make our purchases that we made here. We had to try to guess what size rings to purchase for a teenage boy and girls without having any gauge of what their build and body type will be. The saleswoman was fantastic and everyone was helping out as we tried to make our decisions. We purchased the girls each a traditional claddagh ring and found a unique one for Ciaran that we both really liked. Serona and I browsed but ultimately decided against any purchases for ourselves here.


It was here in Galway that I insisted on a very touristy photo that was not in the easiest spot to get. I wanted a picture of myself under the Claddagh sign. For it was here in this tiny part of Galway, a fishing community where the Claddagh tradition started - in a place called Claddagh. For anyone who does not know about the Claddagh ring - it is a traditional Irish wedding band (yes I have one) - the heart is in the center and it stands for love which is held in the hands of friendship and protected by the crown of trust. Women who wear them before they are married wear them with the heart pointing away from them indicating that their heart is still available. Married women (and men) wear the heart pointing in and the crown pointing out meaning their heart is spoken for and protected in trust. Serona had a wonderful Claddagh ring set custom made for me - it is a one of a kind set!

Before we started our planning for Ireland I did not realize their was actually a place called Claddagh. Even with all my knowledge about the tradition and meaning behind the ring I never knew it actually was named after a particular place in Ireland. So now with everything Claddagh meant to me and being in Ireland I really wanted this picture. Serona groaned and wanted to be REALLY SURE I wanted this photo because we needed to find a place to park, pay for parking and then walk into the corner of a busy intersection and take photos - it was much too conspicuous for him. But I insisted and he relented. Here is one of the photos we took as we stood in Claddagh after having purchased our children their own tiny bit of Ireland just up the street.

We browsed through a few other stores and took in Galway. Street performers, Irish music, restaurants, shops and it just felt friendlier and more manageable than Dublin. One oddity was this was the only place in Ireland we saw what appeared to be military officers stationed like guards with rather big guns patrolling the streets. I might have not be surprised in Dublin (we never saw anything other than police officers) but it seemed odd and out of place in Galway - or atleast unexpected to be sure. We ate at a bakery and roamed the streets enjoying the music and sites before we headed out to catch our ferry.


We stumbled upon a great knitting shop O'Maille where we spent a great deal of time chatting with Anne and Ger the owners and looking over the finely crafted work. They commission the wool, know personally the farmers, spinners and knitters and can tell who knit the sweaters by the style and pattern. In this store I truly saw some of the finest knitting I have ever seen or expect I might ever see again. There was one sweater I was terribly tempted to purchase. Made in the fine dark wool and with a beautiful and unique Aran pattern hand knit by an amazing master knitter based on the quality. But even though I appreciate all the work and beauty that went into that sweater I and especially all the labor I could not bring myself to spend over $400 on a sweater. I admired the work, enjoyed the conversation and learning a bit of the history of the store and Aran coastal knitting and getting great tips for our upcoming visit to Inishmore. I asked if they had any yarn to purchase and we started talking about knitting together. I found some wonderful dark grey Aran wool and purchased enough to one day make a beautiful Aran sweater for myself and that was my treat to myself in Ireland - along with the aran sweater I did purchase on Inishmore. I would recommend a stop into this shop if you love knitting and are ever in Galway. Anne assures me she can ship her wool to the states as well and will take phone orders - her yarn was beautiful and not overly priced for the quality. Treat yourself sometime!

As we headed out on our drive to the ferry we went through scenic places like Salthill



We drove through the town of Barna which once again we did not know actually existed. It is part of a children's song we sing to the kids "Home to Barna" and here we were in Barna! So many times we found ourselves in places we have been singing about for years. Now we stumble upon a town we did not even know was real.



We returned to Galway after our wonderful time on the Aran Islands. This time we had a goal in mind - to find good vegetarian food. We had not yet had a solid vegetarian meal (and no Guinness is NOT a meal much to Serona's disappointment) during our time in Ireland. We managed to eat well enough and cobble a variety of things together to sustain ourselves pleasantly but we had not had a single meal to write home about yet. We (okay maybe just I was) were on a mission to find something good. The ugly food monster was rearing its head in me insisting that in this wonderful city their must be some great place to eat. We walked up and down the streets reading menus and looking for any other option than yet another Aubergine!


The name, atmosphere and music of Druid Lane restaurant was a clear front runner for the possibility of good vegetarian food and it was the winner and provided us with a wonderful meal! A wine bar tucked in the streets of Galway with good wine, great vegetarian food and nice service. It felt so good to have a curry dish and a wonderful lentil dish - with the wine and atmosphere it felt wonderful and we were quite thankful. The owner was there that day and we made sure to stop and thank her for the vegetarian option mentioning how it had not been that easy for us to find good food and thankful for her filling that void for us. Passing by there a few minutes later she stopped us to let me know we left our credit card there! Be sure to stop in and enjoy a meal or glass of wine at Druid Lane if you are ever in Galway!


One thing I forgot to mention is how beautiful it is that Galway is right along the water. You can walk a few blocks and be at the sea line - walk along the coast - see the islands out in the distance - feel the cool breeze and just enjoy the benefits of both the city and the coastline. How cool is that? The drive along the coastline is beautiful and the different colored building along Galway bay and the swans all through the bay make it truly picturesque. While we did not take time to sightsee in Galway we read there were options of things to see - we just wanted to take in the atmosphere, shop and eat a bit and it worked perfectly to suit those needs for us. I would love to go back sometime and take in a few pubs in the evening I am guessing they may be more my speed then the pubs of Temple Bar in Dublin. Go to Galway and be sure to continue on to the Aran Islands - you will not be disappointed.

Aran Islands

I've been wanting to write this post for awhile but never seem to get it done. On an unseasonably cool July night I am sitting on my deck wearing my Aran sweater purchased on Inishmore of the Aran Islands so when am I going to find a better time?

Simply put we loved Inishmore and this entire part of our trip. It was a last minute add in because it is clear across the country from Dublin and ended up being a 4 hour drive. We were initially hesitant but everything I read made me want to go to Galway and the Aran Islands. So we did and we are so thankful we did. Promising ourselves even as we were there that someday we needed to come back with our kids. I honestly can not think of a better place to take a family vacation especially if you need some time with your kids without distractions as there are very few distractions. We want to go back when our kids are teens and can appreciate it but also when we need the connecting time in an isolated and beautiful quiet way.

We arrived by ferry (you can not bring cars onto the island though there are some there the locals use) and found a minibus to take us to our bed and breakfast. We stayed at The Kilmurvey House which is one of the farthest from the main town area of Kilronan. We wanted to be away from the main town area and to get the feel for how quiet the island is also this allowed us to be close to the fort Dun Aengus with spectacular views.

We were greeted at the door by the owner Treasa who greeted us by our names (without us sharing them) and asked how our journey was. We arrived past dinner time but she offered to arrange a car back to town for us or pull something together. We were not that hungry and she made us a lovely plate of freshly baked breads that were delicious and some farm cheeses, perfectly met our needs. She strongly encouraged us to head up to the fort after dinner as we would be away from the crowds. We headed out in our raincoats though we were wanting for a good Aran sweater and could see the temperature they were created for as we headed up and up to the top. We saw a few people heading down but as we arrived at the top we were alone just the two of us in the quiet overlooking the ocean and having the whole historic fort to ourselves.

People have asked me for an absolute favorite part of our trip which is really hard because it truly was all great (yes even with the rain) and it was all so diverse that it truly is hard to pick but this is probably it if I have to pick. Being alone on top of that fort where it was beautiful quiet and just the two of us is about as perfect as it could get. The views truly are incredible and our pictures simply do not do it justice.



As much as I love nature I have a healthy fear of heights and don't like steep cliff or mountain views for that very reason. Well here we are standing on a 350 foot sheer cliff drop to the water and Serona is laying over the edge snapping pictures and admiring the view and trying to convince me to join him. I am slow to join him, refusing at first and he continues to coax about how this is my one opportunity and it is safe. Somehow the romance of the moment I suppose convinced me it was a good idea and I laid down and very bravely managed to work near to the edge having to convince myself forward with every inch wanting to turn back. I made it and peered over (not nearly as far over the ledge as Serona) with my feet wrapped around a rock and fear in my heart. The fear subsided at the amazing beauty that was beneath me and the view I could get that just a few feet away I would have completely missed and even been unaware of. It was breathtaking and wonderful and I was just awed at God's creation and the wonder of it all. I am so glad Serona persisted and I had a temporary case of insanity that allowed me to peer over the edge as it was amazing.

We stayed up at the Fort through sunset enjoying being alone in this beautiful place and in the quiet of the moment so thankful for this rare opportunity. You see most people experience this beautiful location with hundreds of other day tourists and it is crowded and I imagine a completely different experience than the one that we had. We collected trash as we walked along disappointed at the way people treat places and aware how apparent that was when we were alone in the history just ourselves. There was a certain level of respect and awe and reverence that I think you miss in the crowd and of course the quiet of being alone with my husband looking out over the water. A stay at the Kilmurvey House is worth it just for the private opportunity you will have at this special place. Of course it is an excellent B&B and worthy for so many other reasons as well.

We saw another woman alone on top taking pictures and shared some of the best spots with her and snapped a few photos of her so she could be in her pictures. She was from Poland and working for the summer on the Island - I thought what a wonderful opportunity and special place to spend a summer. Then we headed back down the stony path and wanted to continue walking though it was nearly 11pm it was just starting to turn to full night sky.

We headed over to a beach and I put my feet in the cold cold water in the chilly night. But I was in the Irish Sea so there you have it! Serona thought I was nuts but then he joined me as well. The feel of real sand beneath my toes was such a wonderful sensation and one I miss having grown up at the ocean and now being transplanted to the heartland of America. The sand was cool and felt great on my feet, the water was cold and a bit numbing but still wonderful. We walked along the shore and collected shells for the kids and enjoyed the evening sky and once again being alone on this lovely night. We were struck by how quiet and peaceful everything is and also by how you can imagine that would be lonely in the wintertime. We headed back stopping to look at the horse and her foal as we passed them by on the road. Though we took this photo the next day while it was light.



We headed back for a good nights sleep disturbed only by the ticks we discovered we brought back with us from our evening hike! For some reason I did not think of or expect ticks and we had not done our usual check. Surprise! We awoke the next morning the the incessant beep of the fire detector and no power. The island shut down power because they needed to get some work done and there was nothing our hosts could do. They did their best provided a wonderful breakfast and it was light enough that not having the lights did not really matter - we ate and left quickly though since the fire detector could not stop beeping and we wanted to get out and explore the island more.

We were tempted to head back up to the fort but decided it probably could not possibly be any better than our experience the night before. Since we were only the island for the day we had decided not to rent bikes. If we ever go back we will rent bikes for the time we are there as you do get around the island much quicker and it is a preferred way of travel. We wanted to explore as much of the island on our own as we could before the day tourists arrived and it got crowded. Even though we ourselves were tourists we felt we were experiencing the island in a very different way from day tourists and did not want that interrupted and changed. The shops were still closed and quiet and everything about the island was peaceful. We saw some children roaming around and playing, some people riding bikes to their land to feed their livestock and a few people walking or biking. We headed over to see the beehive huts that the monks lived in when they first came to this part of Ireland.



Here was another special moment as we sat inside this fully intact beehive built well over a thousand years ago I could feel myself pulled back in time. To think what was it like to live in this? For this beehive to be my only shelter. To hear the wind whip around it, the rain fall on it and the weather chill through it. To have such a small but adequate space to sleep and stay inside from poor weather. I thought about how different our homes are now and how far the concept of shelter has come. I wondered if there wasn't something to learn about how much outside time they spent. Don't get me wrong it did not make me want to give up our home and move into a beehive hut. I truly enjoy the comforts of our home and the benefits of air conditioning, heating and lots of space for everyone in our family. Still I did find a new commitment to spending more time outside and enjoy creation. We sat and reflected at awed at this little beehive hut for awhile and then headed off to find more of the 7 old churches.



Along the way we saw a sign for another fort and took a less traveled path. Somewhere along the way we missed a sign and ended up on a long rocky stone wall path that seemed to go on forever and end nowhere in particular as it dead ended into several fields just shy of the other end of the island from where we started. This walk was quiet just us the whole time and for a brief moment an old farmer riding on his bike until he could no longer and then heading into a piece of his land to visit his cows. As we walked along the path we were surrounded by patches of land divided by stone walls. We discovered from our driver that first day (who was born and raised on the island and is still there with his grandkids, maybe even great grandkids) that the land was divided evenly among everyone and they pushed stones from the fields to divide the land. It was divided in such a way that everyone got a bit of the good and a bit of the bad so their land is parceled out all throughout the island. We did see some bad land for farming or really much purpose of anything unless you were going o quarry rocks maybe as i was sheer rocks within the stone walls. Next to that might be a patch of grass with some cows or horses. It was a lovely quiet walk just us and the occasional horse or cow friend coming right along our path to say hello by popping their heads over the stone walls into the path! It definitely felt like we were in the Ireland I pictured.

Our trail overlooked more beautiful cliff drops and this time I opted to see only what I could from my feet. Still the views were breathtaking and amazing. To us it was even more special knowing probably not many people see this particular view as it was a long hard walk with no known destination. My guess is most people would have turned back on this path (if they even started upon it) except for those of course whose land is at the top of this path. We enjoyed the view for awhile and then prepared ourselves for the long walk back down the path we already traveled. We enjoyed ourselves and the quiet moments we were stealing and the joy of not having to help little ones on this rougher road.


When we arrived nearly at the start of the trail we spotted the fort sign we missed before and headed the short distance to the fort. Once again we were alone here and I can't express how special this quiet time was for us to see these amazing sites without a bunch of other tourists truly contrasted to our experience at the Book of Kells or other historic locations. It allowed us time to reflect and enjoy and feel something special - something made possible by staying overnight on this island so many visit just for the day and taking some off the common trails. This fort was completely overgrown and not maintained much at all anymore. You can tell the other fort maybe overshadowed it or was more visited still it was a great experience to be in it. We headed back to the start of the trail and by now were famished and decided food was more important than seeing anymore historic sites. We had walked from one end of the island (the shorter way) to the other and then back again. We had been treated to amazing views, quiet moments, friendly horses and a beautiful vista where we could see both bodies of water from the high center point of the island.

We got some simple sandwiches at a nearby shop that was now filled with tourists where it had been silent just a few hours earlier. Some local children were playing Irish music live and really added to the atmosphere. I could not help but think how entrepreneurial they or their parents were. The fact that they were kids and playing so well no doubt increased the amount they were taking in. Better still they seemed to enjoy it. We finished up some of our gift shopping for our family and enjoyed a few shops. Neither Serona nor I are shoppers and don't generally enjoy spending time in stores but it was nice to pick out a few special items for some special people in our lives.


We boarded a bus back to the main village of Kilronan with an Irish step dancing team of young kids. They were rowdy and loud and it seemed even a bigger juxtaposition to our quiet time on the island. We tried to enjoy our last views of the island over the building noise and were relived when we arrived in Kilronan. We visited a few more shops and purchased some hand knit Aran sweaters before boarding the ferry back to Galway. We both knew we would miss this island and our special time here. I suppose looking back in many ways it was our favorite part of the trip though we enjoyed all of our time in Ireland. We both know that we would love the opportunity to come back here and plan to if we ever make it back to Ireland. It would especially be a great place to go on a family retreat. We talked about trying to convince our whole extended families to come here and rent bicycles and relax on the island for a week or so.


If you are heading to Ireland do not miss this special place. If you fly into Shannon airport you are very close already. Take the time and stay overnight (a few days if you can) and rent some bicycles, stay at the Kilmurvey House or the Man of Aran cottage (yes it was the one in the movie). Purchase your hand knit (read labels carefully many are machine knit) Aran sweater when you arrive because they are specifically designed for the climate you will experience on the islands. Then enjoy the quiet and off trail moments you can find - take full advantage of the time when the day tourists are not on the island. You really get a feel for the Ireland you may be imagining in your head. Stop at Galway on either the beginning or end of your trip and purchase a traditional Claddagh ring. Enjoy!

From DublinTown to Galway

On Monday we left Dublin and headed to the west coast of Ireland. We drove on the N^ for most of the way, a road that felt like Rte 66 in the United States. We drove through small town after small town, through farming fields and just small town Ireland on a road that may someday be by-passed by highways. Even though it took longer to get there I am glad this was our route because it made us take our time and appreciate the drive and see more of small town Ireland and parts we never would have decided to visit in our short time. A forced scenic tour that I'm glad we did not miss.

As we drove through the countryside we pointed out cows, horses and sheep just as we would here in the states. We wondered if the Irish point out our livestock when they drive through our country. Or if they wonder why ours are so penned up and there are so many more in such a smaller space. This was very noticeable as we drove through Ireland and in comparison to much of the American heartland we have driven through - factory farming is much more apparent in the United States and by appearances the livestock in Ireland have a very different experience. Interesting to us because we care about that sort of thing, wonder how many other people would have even noticed that difference?

The towns we drive through all seemed to have a similar look and feel. The local bar had a storefront that looked much like the ones in Dublin and the towns seemed to have the same staples with some slight variety. It was apparent to me how much more choice we have in the United States, how much variety there is and also how much consistency chains provide. It is hard to go somewhere in the US without being able to get predictable and reliable food and stores. In Ireland I could not find a bag of pretzels in all the places I looked. Also we never knew what you would find for food in restaurants (an interesting experience for vegetarians travelling). There were brown historical sites all along the way throughout these towns - we did not take the time to stop and see all that was offered to us. We had to be disciplined near Althone and Clonmacnoise but we still had a ways to go.

After three and a half hours in the car listening to bad music and driving through the central part of Ireland between Galway and Dublin town (anyone get the song reference yet?) we arrive in Galway. Only to discover that we have another hour drive ahead of us to get to the ferry docks in Ros a Mir.

We spent some time tooling around in Galway exploring what it had to offer and actually shopping (one of the few times we did this intentionally in Ireland). I will post more about this in my Galway post. We divided our visit to Galway in half on either end of our Aran Islands trip but I will put it all together in my next post. We headed back into the car and along the coastal road to Ros a Mir where we boarded a ferry (people only no cars) over to Inishmore of the Aran Islands.

As I sat on the ferry I reflected on the things we just saw along the way from the busy streets of Dublin to the small towns all along the N6 into Galway (which feels in many ways like a smaller more enjoyable Dublin) off to the very small town of Ros a Mir and on to the boat to the island that is home to several hundred people who still speak the Irish and have their land divided by stone walls. It was a lot of variety for just four hours of driving. To make it from one side of a country to the other in that short time seemed amazing to me considering how long it takes to travel withing some states that feel like they will never end.

Still even as we drove and saw the differences there was a certain familiarity that makes you smile. Watching moms push baby strollers, friends walking together, an older couple holding hands, construction workers waving us through, kids walking home from school and all the normal day to day activities of people no matter where you live. Seeing petrol stations, grocers, shops, churches, farms and homes from town to town - what was the same and what was different. Experiencing some of the 40 shades of green as we drove along the highway, making our journey part of our destination. Sharing what we saw and thought with one another, wondering what others think as they drive along this road and what out of towners think when they drive through the roads in our state and neighborhoods. It was a good drive and a nice way to spend an afternoon in Ireland even as we looked forward with anticipation to our final destination of Inishmore.

New Grange and Knowth

After two days full of Dublin we headed North about an hour to see some of the oldest things in all of Ireland and to date actually in the world. Yes these structures are older than the Great Pyramids in Egypt (and no it is not Stonehenge - which is in England though everyone asked if we would see it in Ireland) and they were very fascinating.

We began our tour at the visitor center of Bru na Boinne where we could catch our tour buses out to the sites. The only way to see these sites is through the guided tours provided from the visitor center. Still the tour is worth both your time and your money and we were glad we choose to do both NewGrange and Knowth sites - you can no longer visit the Dowth site or we would have done that as well. The visitor center is well done and provides a great introduction to the area and the history of the prehistoric sites. Definitely plan to spend some time there if you go visit.

We headed to Newgrange first and we were impressed that you can still go inside these ancient tombs. Our tour guide was great and very good at admitting that all of this is prehistory so we are making our best guesses and theories about what these passages were used for and different people have different interpretations. They believe it has something to do with the solstices as the light fits perfectly into the tomb passageways during the winter solstice at Newgrange and the summer solstice at Knowth. We got to walk inside these passageways that were built in approximately 3200 BC and be amazed at how long they have lasted and how well they were built. It really is hard to express how we felt walking inside those passageways and contemplating what they were made for and who they were made by and how long they have lasted and been preserved and just how crazy it was that we could be inside them right now. It was of course raining but we did take time to walk around and see all the carvings on the stones and try to understand what it meant and be amazed at how long it has lasted and weathered through all the harsh rain and winds of Ireland over these 5000 years. Our time there was too short and we headed back to catch our next bus over to Knowth.


Knowth has a completely different feel and there are many more passageways and tombs here. The carvings are much more detailed and significant and you could spend much more time here - but you can not go down the passageways. So going to both sites is a good thing, I also enjoyed going to Newgrange first as we had more appreciation for what we were seeing at Knowth. I also enjoyed our tour guide here more - she was a bit more informative and interesting. She shared a lot of details about the different mounds and to be fair there is a lot more going on at Knowth that at New grange so she had more to talk about. The big stones has substantial carvings on them, some look like they were just recently done. There is also a big and smooth fertility stone that was interesting. Just like at Newgrange the mounds are made up of beautiful quartz that make them fascinating to look at.

Instead of going inside this passageway we were able to climb on top of it and see the views from up high. You can see several other tomb areas and the mountains. Our day was a bit rainy and overcast so our view was not as good as it could be, but beautiful still the same. We took time to walk around the site and examine the carvings and think through who built them (most likely teenagers) and how long it took them and why they did it. Again history coming alive in very real and interesting ways.

Once again we felt our time here was too short but our tour was over and the next group was arriving so we bid Knowth and Newgrange goodbye - fairly confident we will never experience something built so long ago during our lifetime - but you never know. We would definitely recommend going to see these sites if you are anywhere near or in county Meath.

We headed on to explore some other ancient sites - which did not seem so old after spending the day at sites over 5000 years old.

Dublin History

We spent our second day enjoying Dublin and seeing all the things I most wanted to see. Serona was great about letting me choose what I wanted to see here as he had already been here and he was okay with the fact that for him that meant seeing some things again because I really wanted to see them.

We started out at Trinity College and the Book of Kells. This was one of the things I most wanted to see in Ireland. Having spent this past year learning about the time period and the Book of Kells itself I was very excited for the opportunity to see it. The weight of how old the book was and how long it took to make is apparent when you are there. Rhiannon wished she could see it as we spent so much time learning about it and book making from this time period. Even having a lesson pretending to be a scribe and illustrator from the time.

The exhibit is set up well. With a room full of information and history about the time period and images from the book blown up large for you to examine. We spent about an hour going through this room and learning more about it. Then when we were finished in there we headed into the room with the Book of Kells and the Book of Armagh and Book of Durrow also on display. There was a page of writing and a page of illustrations open so you could see both. The table was crowded with people but you could wait your turn and take as much time as you needed we spent another half hour in here or so.

The books were incredibly impressive and made you feel their age and the tender care with which they were created. The policy was no photography allowed to preserve the books. I was angered when I saw people taking photos just brazenly - fulfilling the image of the "ugly American tourist" and others were saying things like "Four score and seven years ago...I've seen something like this" - of course there is nothing in our country this old or even coming close. (This picture was not taken by us in case you imagine we were the ugly American tourists)

We waited for that group to move on and then took some more quiet time examining the books, thankful for the opportunity to see them. Amazed that they have been preserved for so long and through such dark and violent times - thankful for the monks and scribes who took the massive amounts of time to create and preserve so much for our benefit. I was surprised at how impressed I was at the writing itself which was done painstakingly and so neat - it clearly was an art. Knowing the cost of a mistake makes you really aware of how careful they were. I was also surprised by how small the ornate letters are. So often we see them blown up to see the detail - it was suprising to see they were usually no more than two or sometimes three lines of text when I had the impression they would be much larger. Overall I was in awe and thankful for the opportunity to see them and feel the weight of what they accomplished and preserved for us generations later.

As we headed up to the Long Room, a great library filled with more volumes that you can count and impressive statues of famous heads we were discussing what of our time will be as impressive as that and our human need to express ourselves and communicate our history. We have blog and more books then have ever been written before but will people want to read them the way we want to see the Book of Kells and examine them? The sheer beauty and artistry that went into preserving the history and truth - somehow it feels to me our society is lacking that. What will future generations flock to see and experience from our time?


We headed upstairs and the Long Room is impressive. Unfortunately they had some special exhibit about war going on and it was distracting form the room. Long banners were in the way of seeing the books and big display tables took away from the beauty and quiet of the room. Still it was powerful to experience. As we walked along and looked at Homer, Plato, Socrates, Aristotle and on down through history and we saw and smelled old books it once again was hard not to feel the weight of how old and special everything was. The experiences and weight of history comes alive for me in such circumstances. We were disappointed that about half the hallway is roped off because it is high tourist season so we missed out on seeing half of the head statues and the non exhibit half where you can better see the books and get the feel for the room. Still it was incredible to experience and makes us both desire to increase our own home personal library.

As all good tours end ours ended in a gift shop so we could browse the items and spend more Euro. We actually did pick up some gifts here for the kids, some beautiful Connemara marble crosses for them. We browsed through the store and headed off to our next location - Dublin Castle.

We spent time in each of the courtyards and near the church. We decided against the tour inside as we still wanted to get to two other locations and had spent so much time inside Trinity College already. Still it was impressive, not as large as most castles but large enough for a city. The courtyard had an impressive feel and it was beautiful. We took a bunch of pictures here - I am so thankful for digital cameras and no more rolls and rolls of film. We just keep taking pictures and are assured of getting a few good ones. With over 400 pictures a day we should get a few good ones.


We headed over to Christ Church and spent a good amount of time there. It was a self-guided tour that took us through the church and down into the crypt where some of the most interesting artifacts were. There was a good video and many interesting items that have been collected over the years since the 11th century. Again it is hard to see these things and walk through this building and not feel how old it is. to know it is built on Vikings remains and the history behind the church and its significance was interesting. We spent a good part of our afternoon here.


Then we headed over to the Guinness Brewery and Storehouse for something completely different but also quintessential Irish. i can honestly say that I like Guinness before Serona but he converted pretty quickly and for both of us it is a beer of choice - so to be there was fun and yes the Guinness does honestly taste better there. It is a bit smoother, creamier and less bitter, very enjoyable. We asked if it was our imagination or if there is a difference. It is the same beer but about two weeks older in the United States it is also stored and served slightly differently in terms of temperature and the way they pour that does affect taste.

The tour was self-guided but very interesting. This allowed us to take as much or as little time in any given area and to skip areas if we wanted. We learned about the whole process and it was interesting. I think most interesting to me was how important the water source is (for Guinness from the Wicklow Mountains) and that the founder was so confident that he signed a 9,000 year lease for 45 pounds a year! Learning the process of beer making was interesting. We took our time going through the brewery and ended upstairs in the gravity bar to get our "free" Guinness (read most expensive guinness in all of Ireland for 18 Euro apiece - the cost of the tour). The bartender made a shamrock on top of our beers at our request. We enjoyed a lovely view of Dublin and a peak at the Wicklow mountains as we enjoyed our Guinness with many other people in a standing room only bar.

After our tour we were tired and ready to head home and get a bite to eat - having not eaten since breakfast. We got caught in a downpour! The one time we left our hotel without our umbrellas - we did thankfully have our raincoats. Still the walk back was long and I was in a skirt and birks (not the best rain gear to be sure) and we were completely soaked and a bit miserable with each other when we finally arrived back at the hotel. We dried off and headed downstairs for a bite to eat at the hotel pub. Decent food, good Guinness and no rain was involved - a blessing to us all - even if it came at a high premium cost for hotel food.


After dinner we headed back out to the Temple Bar area opting for a taxi this time to stay dry. We ended up back at the Auld Dubliner after trying a few other places and enjoyed some good live music. One of the things we did not expect about Ireland was all the bad American music played - we discovered that sometimes a sign that read "live irish music" actually translated into "live bad american music played live by the irish" - still we had a nice time and a full day experiencing Dublin! From ancient history to the pubs and the brewery that made the beer all in all an excellent day spent in Dublin - despite the rain.

Peace,
Tenniel

It's Raining in Dublin...

Should definitely be the name of an Irish song - if it isn't already. When the woman at the sports shop asked me if I wanted the waterproof pants to go along with the coat - I should absolutely have said yes. Alas I did not, but at least I was wise enough to buy fantastic waterproof jackets which are keeping us completely dry everywhere they cover - leaving us dry enough to enjoy ourselves despite the rain.

We have been in Dublin two days now and we have done so much it is hard to believe. We have manged to have a wonderful time in spite of the rain. We have seen wonderful sites, experienced history in ways we never have before and enjoyed more fresh Guinness than I have ever had! We've walked the streets of Dublin in all sorts of weather, have enough of a feel for the city that we are growing comfortable and have enjoyed this special time away from our children and celebrating our marriage and time just for the two of us.

Our journey began with the typically long European flights. With three connections running through New Jersey, Amsterdam and finally landing in Ireland - it was a long day. When we arrived to pick up our car we had been up 26 hours straight for neither of us were able to sleep on the airplanes. I enjoyed the flights (though by the end I was uncomfortable). I have not flown without children in 8 years so it was actually enjoyable and much easier than what I was used to. In fact the quiet time alone to do simply whatever I wanted was a refreshing change, even if it was in cramped quarters. I finished knitting a pair of socks and began another, read a novel, brushed up on some Irish history, journaled, and even watched a few movies I had been wanting to see but never got around to. Also KLM had great customer service, including lots of meal and snack service and all beverages of choice were free for the whole flight. Serona and I enjoyed some quiet companionship next to one another but doing what we were interested in at the time. It almost felt indulgent, plus I was of course anticipating our arrival here.


Our arrival into Ireland was uneventful. We were thankful to see our luggage just where it should be and everything arrived without incident and on time, answered prayer. Our car was ready for us, and that is when things became interesting. We began our Dublin experience with a harrowing drive from the airport to our hotel. Serona was handling the driving - which I could not.

He was driving a stick shift on the other side of the car on the other side of the road through narrow Dublin lanes. Oh did I mention he has never done this before and it was after being up for 26 hours straight without any sleep? Yeahhhhh. On top of that we did not have written out directions to our hotel. Instead the rental car company handed us a programmed GPS without a lesson in how to use it. My sleep deprived mind could not figure out how to get it off the map that showed where we were and gave us only about 100 meters notice for any turns (about a short city block). Also forgot to mention all the roundabouts instead of lights, great when you have no idea how to navigate them or where you are going. Thankfully our GPS system did adapt to our errors and eventually we found our way to the hotel, with Serona's wonderful driving. I must say I was proud of Serona, he managed wonderfully even though it was scary and challenging. I can not begin to say how thankful I am that this was not (nor will be at any time we are here) my responsibility.


The hotel we are staying at is FANTASTIC! The doorman greeted us, took all our luggage and parked our car. We went up to our rooms, showered and collapsed for a few hours. The room is great by European standards and is very comfortable and nice. We recommend the Conrad Dublin. It is centrally located to everything, comfortable and very accomodating. They also serve a full Irish breakfast, have a full service restuarant, 24 hour room service and an on site pub.

After a three hour nap we were refreshed and ready to explore Dublin. It was raining and much of the Tourist, historical sites were closed (it appears everything closes at 5pm but the restaurants and pubs - a bit different than in the states). So we headed out to the Temple Bar area and to explore Dublin in the rain. We had giant golf umbrellas, our raincoats and good excited attitudes as we approached the Dublin rain. Which at times simply opened up and down poured, then moved to a light drizzle, to a brief respite and back into a downpour. It was interesting to observe how people approached rain and you quickly realize it is simply a part of life that you adapt to and continue on through here. Umbrellas are the norm and people are polite with them, raincoats are ESSENTIAL as is good footwear. As for the bottom of your pants - well I think you just grow to accept that you will be wet. People find the sheltered places to stand and wait and keep their distances from curbs so as not to get splashed on by passing cars. Still everything about life continues on throughout the changing weather, so we of course just went with it.


We walked in the rain for about two hours taking in sites and growing familiar with the area as well as seeking out vegetarian food options. We found a great pub O'Neills with great atmosphere, good food and plenty of Guinness. We shared our first of many Guinness in the country, a nice vegetarian meal and time to observe locals and tourists interacting in the bar. It was a wonderful way to spend our anniversary dinner. Hard to believe I was sitting in a pub in Dublin. They are wonderful, it is difficult to put my finger on what makes them so different from American pubs - besides the Guinness which really does taste better, they are less polished, more comfy and homey, more quiet corners all mixed together. People do not hesitate to share small corners of tables and move chairs around as needed. There is a less structured feel to them, multi-floored, multi-roomed, tons of conversations going on and a general friendliness, they are really wonderful and I will miss them when we head back to the United States.


After drying off and a wonderful relaxing dinner we headed to the Temple Bar area, a main bar area that is quite a mix of tourists and locals. It reminds me in some ways of the French Quarter of New Orleans yet with a uniquely Dublin feel. Filled with
restaurants, pubs, clubs, shops and other little places to go it is lively. It seems there is always something unique going on in Dublin. Groups of people were wearing Dublin Night 2007 shirts and in different costumes, mostly these were women but there were occasionally groups of men dressed up as well. One group was wearing pink cowboy hats and feather boas, another grass skirts, another nurses outfits, another dressed as various superheroes. All moving through the crowds as if this happens every night, perhaps it does - it has both weekend nights we have been there so far, as well as last winter when Serona spent time there. There are street performers and spontaneous gatherings of people in the streets, great music and of course good beer. It is also a great place for people watching.


We went in and out of 5 pubs that evening Oliver St. John Gogarty's, the Auld Dubliner, O'Sullivans (in honor of certain family members) and two I can not recall the name of. They were loud, crowded and full of interesting people. It was fun to me to try to guess who is from Ireland and who is not. Over time you realize there is an Irish look that some people have that is very easy to tell. Perhaps it was easy for me to pick out because my family all has that look. Serona says it is in the combination of our eyes, nose and cheeks, mostly I can tell it when people smile (which they do a lot of at the pubs). The song When Irish eyes are Smiling has something to it! An easy mix of people goes on at the pubs and everyone is friendly and accomodating to one another. They are also very polite, especially when dealing with moving through crowded rooms, etiquette on the stairs and general kindness
to one another. Even as the night progresses and people are clearly dealing with the results of having drank too much they are in general respectful of one another. I have never had so many men step aside, wait for me or defer to me in bars as I did that first night in Dublin.


One thing that truly surprised me about the pubs - they play bad American music. Nearly all of the ones we went into were playing American music over the PA, and older sing along music - the crowds were into it and singing loudly together which was fun. still hearing songs like Thriller, Born in the USA, Barbara Ann, Sweet Home Alabama and many others along those lines was surprising to me. At first I thought it was just the pubs we choose in the area but as we walked past many and stopped to listen inside that is what we heard consistently. We eventually discovered that most of these pubs have upstairs rooms with live music, much of it traditional Irish music. These are the places we sought out and tried to spend most of our time. We settled for the evening at the Auld Dubliner - a great pub we returned to the following evening. Live traditional Irish music performers, we even purchased a CD for one we enjoyed. We were lucky to get a great booth where we could see the musicians, enjoy the music and be comfortably seated. Great atmosphere, good music and reliably smooth Guinness made up our evening until we returned to our hotel somewhere around 2am.

We walk everywhere in Dublin and I really enjoy that. My feet are sometimes tired at the end of the day but it feels good to be walking so much. I do enjoy that aspect of urban life and Dublin is an easy city to get around on foot. It feels very safe even throughout the late hours of night because it is so well traveled (at least the areas we are in), there are many police walking around and mostly you need to learn how to navigate around people who have had a bit too much to drink and look the other way as many of the men just relieve themselves on the side of the road, against a building or near a bush. It is rare for me to feel so comfortable in a city especially in the evening but Dublin is very welcoming, easy to navigate, nice and has a safe feel to it. Overall a very enjoyable city.


We walk several times a day through St. Stephen's Green which is lovely (though it is locked in the evenings - note the rain in the picture), through Grafton Street (filled with many stores that shoppers will love and fun street performers providing various entertainment) and through some of the other parts of town that are nearby.

We stroll through small neighborhood blocks to get a feel for the areas and went over the Ha'Penny bridge to get a feel for the other side of the Liffey.
We are starting to recognize our way around places and they have wonderful signs for tourists pointing you with regularity to the most common sites which also helps with learning navigation around the city. Overall it has been a great city to explore even in the constant rain we have experienced.

Ireland - Getting Excited

Well our 10 year anniversary trip to Ireland is coming up soon and we have been planning our trip and have as final of details as we can possibly manage. We will likely change plans but have a pretty flexible idea of what we want to see. After all, one never knows what this crazy clan will do.

Since we will be there for 6 days (one I fear quite sluggish due to my first experience ever with jet lag - any great recommendations on jet lag welcome)we are focusing our time in the areas we most want to see. There are so many wonderful things to see throughout all of Ireland and they are simply too far spread out to see at any one time. Serona has very graciously deferred to me to pick the things I most want to see and is willing to go along. His one request - that we not stick too tightly to a schedule that we can't relax and have downtime. There are many great things to see but not at the expense of pushing a clock and rushing through any of them, better to miss some than to rush through what precious time we have there. A healthy attitude I agree. So I have spent the past week and some time before that pouring through guidebooks, websites and other recommendations looking for what I most want to see and that we will enjoy the most together.

We will primarily be in Dublin. There are simply so many wonderful things to see there and so much to experience. I am looking forward to Trinity College and seeing the Book of Kells (Rhia wishes she was seeing this with us), having the pint at the Guinness Brewery, St. Patricks, Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin Castle, Temple Bar, Grafton street and St. Stephens Green among all the other things we just happen to see and experience. Serona has been there before and done many of the things I desire to do already but is happy to experience them again. We will spend several days in the city. We also plan one, perhaps two day trips in the outskirts of Dublin.

One northern trip to see the historic and archaeological sites that predate the ancient Egyptian pyramids, as well as some monastery ruins and great crosses and hopefully the Hill of Tara. As best we can tell this should be a very full but do able daytrip to return to Dublin in the evening from. There are two sites I really would like to see and others we can see if we have time along the way back. That is the flexible part - so we are not rushing just to mark off locations.

The second day trip we might do (unless we decide we need another full day in Dublin) will be to the Wicklow Mountain area, just south of Dublin. To see the Powerscourt Gardens and waterfall, Glendalough, Bray and the Wicklow Mountains themselves. Another trip short enough to do and return to Dublin if we wish, but one we could skip if we are feeling rushed or over scheduled. Still the call of nature and the beauty of this area may be just what we need to slow down a bit.

Our major excursion out of Dublin will be a two day trip to the Aran Islands and Galway. At first we had ruled it out being on the opposite coast and a three hour drive. After reading many books and looking at so many pictures and websites though it was the Aran Islands that I felt I wanted to see and stay at. Galway while interesting and worth seeing if we are there I am not sure would have convinced me of the three hour drive each way.

But the islands and the ability to see some more traditional life, the home of the Aran sweater and the idea of renting a bicycle and staying at a bed and breakfast on the quiet islands - now that is appealing. Whether I will be brave enough to look over the edge of the 200 ft cliffs I am not sure of - but Serona will enjoy that view I am sure. There is much to see and just to have what I envision to be a peaceful time in a more traditional area of Ireland with Serona holds a lot of appeal to me. Then Galway itself and possibly the town of Claddagh before we head out of Ireland and back to the States.

If we do the things we tentatively have planned it is quite a mix of history, archeology, culture, nightlife, beautiful land, nature and the people of Ireland. The elements I most want to see. No, we will not go Kiss the Blarney Stone, can you honestly even begin to imagine how much wordy I might become with the "gift of gab?" Nor will we see the land where my ancestors come from, Giant's Causeway, Kilarnery, Waterford, Rock of Cashel or some of the other hot spots to see in Ireland. We are just fine with that, there is simply so many wonderful things to see and do and we are excited for the ones we have chosen.

Now just what to do for the three plane rides to get there? I have taken up knitting socks, playing suduko, have my journal and may read a good Irish history primer. We are bringing movies, computers and the standard occupy your time items. Anyone have any other good suggestions for passing the time on a long plane ride? Getting excited to go to the one place I have dreamed of going since I was a little girl!